Tasting Alsace: Food and Wine Pairings

My interest in food led me to wine – what better way to enhance that plate of food than with a glass of wine, right? Absolutely! The glass of wine with dinner has grown into a keen interest and curiosity about wine. I have two WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) certifications, levels 2 & 3, under my belt. The saying the more you know about wine, the more you realize what you don’t know, so true! So in my quest to “know more,” I have started on another wine journey with the Wine Scholar Guild’s French Wine course, an intensive study of  French wines and wine regions of France. So dear reader, if you love food and wine and want to learn more, come along with me as I take the deep dive into French wine. The first stop is Alsace. 

Alsace is located in France’s northeast corner, lying between the 47th and 49th parallel north (the limit for wine growing is the 50th parallel); only the Champagne wine-growing region lies further north. Alsace is bordered by the Rhine River and Germany to the east and the Vosges Mountains to the west. The Vosges Mountains act as a rain shadow protecting the region from the climatic influences of the Atlantic. In Alsace, rainfall averages 15.5-19.5 inches annually compared to the region west of the Vosges Mountains averaging 90 inches of rain annually. The region also enjoys 1800 hours of sunshine per year.

map courtesy of WineFolly.com

There are 13 different soil types in Alsace attributing to the assortment of grape varieties grown in the region.

7 Primary Grape Varieties in Alsace

Most French wines are labeled with the producer and the wine region; however, in Alsace, due to historical changes in nationality and allegiance from centuries of wars, the wines are labeled in the German tradition with the producer and grape variety. The bottle shape used is a long tapered flute bottle, another nod to German influence from the past.

6 Whites Varieties

• Riesling
• Pinot Blanc – also known as Pinot Vrai or Klevner
• Gewurztraminer – without umlaut in Alsace
• Pinot Gris
• Sylvaner
• Muscat

1 Red Variety

• Pinot Noir

Wine Styles of Alsace

80% of the wines produced are white, with Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat being the main four varieties known as the “noble grapes.” The wines are generally dry, ranging from lean, fruity, and mineral-driven to rich and aromatic. The wines are mostly fermented in stainless stain or neutral oaks casks to express the true varietal character of the grape and  the terroir where they are grown.

80% of Alsace wines are labeled by varietal, generally indicating the wine is 100% the listed varietal. (There are two Grand Cru exceptions; Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim may be a single variety of  Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Riesling or a blend. Alsace Grand Cru Kaefferkopf can be a single variety of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Riesling or a blend.)

Gentil is a blend containing 50% Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and/or Muscat with the balance of grapes like Sylvaner, Chasselas, and Pinot Blanc.

Edelzwicker is also a blend of any white grapes approved by the Alsace AOC.

Crémant d’ Alsace is the region’s sparkling wine made in the méthode traditionnelle (like Champagne). Most of the crémant production is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. Some are 100% Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, or Riesling. Blanc de Noir is 100% Pinot Noir. Gewurztraminer is forbidden in the production of Crémant d’ Alsace.

Sweet/Late Harvest Wines fall into two categories. Vendanges Tardives are late harvest wines made from Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, or Gewurztraminer. They may or may NOT be affected by noble rot. Sélections de Grains Nobles are late harvest wines made from Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, or Muscat. They MUST be made from grapes affected by noble rot.

Alsace Appellations

There are 53 total AOCs in Alsace.

• Alsace AOC
• 51 Alsace Grand Cru AOCs
• Crémant d’Alsace AOC

My Wine Tasting Notes

2015 Albert Boxler Crémant d’ Alsace Brut
12.5% abv | $36.00 Kermit Lynch | 30% Pinot Blanc, 50% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Pinot Noir

Medium-straw in color with small fine bubbles. Aromas of citrus and apples. On the palate, dry with medium body and medium (+) acidity. Flavor notes of lemon zest, green apple, pears, french baguette, and minerals. Refreshing acidity balanced with a smooth mouthfeel.

2018 Hugel Classic Riesling
12% abv | $18.00 Total Wines | 100% Riesling

Medium-straw in color. Aromas of citrus and green apples. On the palate, dry with medium body and medium (+) acidity. Flavors of lime, green apples, and minerals. A fresh thirst-quenching wine.

2018 Domaine Ostertag Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner, Alsace
12.5% abv | $30.00 Kermit Lynch | 100% Sylvaner

Pale straw in color. Aromas of herbs, floral, and citrus. On the palate, dry with medium body and medium (+) acidity. Flavors of lemon-lime zest, crushed gravel, thyme, and a hint of honey with a smooth, silky mouthfeel.

2017 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Noir, Alsace
12% abv | $20.00 Kermit Lynch| 100% Pinot Noir

Pale ruby in color. Aromas of red fruit and earth. On the palate, dry with medium (-) body, medium acidity, and medium (-) tannins. Delicate savory flavors of cherry, red currant, spice, and earth.

Alsace: Food and Wine Pairings

I started my food pairings with a regional classic Alsatian flatbread with bacon and crème fraîche known locally as “Flammkuchen.” This very thin like pizza crust with smoky bacon and creamy, rich crème fraîche pairs well with the young Riesling with refreshing acidity and low alcohol. The Crémant with cleansing bubbles, good acidity, low alcohol, fruity, and baguette flavor notes was also a delightful match.

Another appetizer that works well with the Riesling and Crémant is crostini. I made a smoked trout and tomato, pesto, and mozzarella crostini. The acidity in the wines playing to the salty smoked trout, pesto, acidic tomatoes and cutting the cheese’s richness. The alcohol and body of the wines were also in balance with the weight of the crostini.

A favorite and classic regional Alsace pairing is Choucroute Garnie. Sauerkraut, sausages, smoked ham, and pork spareribs make for a sublime pairing with the Alsatian white wines. I did try the Choucroute with the Pinot Noir, the sausages and pork made for an agreeable pairing, but the combination of the dish as a whole needed the acidity and fruity elements of the Riesling, Crémant, and Sylvaner.

Sources Used: Wine Scholar Guild, “The Wine Bible,” Karen MacNeil

5 from 1 vote

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Flammkuchen

A traditional Alsatian flatbread with smoked bacon, onions, and créme fraîche paired with a Riesling from Alsace.

Course: Appetizer

Cuisine: French

Keyword: Flammkuchen

Author: Jane, adapted from "My Berlin Kitchen," Luisa Weiss

Ingredients

• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon yeast
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 cup filtered or spring water, lukewarm
• 14 tablespoons crème fraîche
• 1 large red onion, very thinly sliced
• 8 oz. lean smoked bacon, cut into 1/4-inch strips
• freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Pour the warm water and yeast into a small bowl, stir to combine. Let it rest for about 5 minutes.

2. Brush a large bowl with olive oil. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, add the flour and salt. Pulse a few time to combine. Add the water and yeast mixture and 2 tablespoons of olive oil through the feed tube. Process until the dough comes together. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth. Transfer to the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and set aside for about an hour or until dough is doubled in volume.

4. If you have a pizza stone, place it on the lowest rack in the oven.

   About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to the highest setting (mine is 500 F). Divide the dough in half and set aside one piece and cover with the dish towel.

5. On a silicone pastry mat or a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough very, very thin, resting to allow the dough to relax and turning the dough as you go.

6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet.

7. Spread the dough with half of the crème fraîche, leaving a 1/4-inch border. Evenly distribute the onion slices and bacon strips over the Flammkuchen.

8. Place the baking sheet on the oven rack or pizza stone if using. Bake for about 10 minutes or until it is crisp and starting to turn golden-brown. (If using the pizza stone, after the first 5 minutes of baking, slide the Flammkuchen with parchment paper still underneath on to the stone and continue to bake until crisp and golden-brown.)

9. Remove the baking sheet or use a pizza peel to remove the Flammkuchen from the oven. Season liberally with freshly ground black pepper, cut into squares, and serve immediately. Repeat with the second dough.

5 from 1 vote

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Smoked Trout and Tomato, Pesto, and Mozzarella Crostini

Savory crostini are a tasty and easy appetizer to pair with an Alsace d' Crémant.

Course: Appetizer

Keyword: Smoked Trout Crostini & Tomato, Pesto, and Mozzarella Crostini

Author: Jane, adapted from "Giada's Italy," Giada de Laurentiis

Ingredients

Smoked Trout Crostini

• 1/2 French Baguette, cut into 20 (1/4-inch) slices
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 8 oz. smoked trout, flaked
• 2 + tablespoons fresh dill, chopped +(dill sprigs for garnish)
• 6 tablespoons crème fraîche

Tomato, Pesto, and Mozzarella Crostini

• 1/2 French Baguette, cut into 20 (1/4-inch) slices
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 8 oz. prepared pesto extra pesto can be used with pasta
• 4-6 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 8 oz. fresh mozzarella balls
• basil leaves for garnish

Instructions

Smoked Trout Crostini

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F

2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush each baguette slice on both sides with olive oil. Place the slices on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 8 minutes or until your desired crispness. Set aside and let cool.

3. Remove the skin from the smoked trout. In a small bowl, flake the trout with a fork or your hands. Add the crème fraîche and dill. Gently fold and mix to combine.

4. Spread each crostini with a spoonful of the trout mixture and top with a sprig of dill.

Tomato, Pesto, and Mozzarella Crostini

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F

2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush each baguette slice on both sides with olive oil. Place the slices on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 8 minutes or until your desired crispness. Set aside and let cool.

3. Spread each crostini with a spoonful of pesto. Distribute the chopped tomatoes over the pesto. Top with a torn piece of the mozzarella ball. Garnish with a basil leave.

5 from 1 vote

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Choucroute Garnie

A classic regional Alsace white wine pairing, Choucroute Garnie made with sauerkraut, sausages, smoked ham, and pork spareribs.

Course: Main Course

Cuisine: French, German

Keyword: Choucroute Garnie

Author: Jane, adapted from "Craig Claiborne's The New York Times Cookbook" and "Parisian Home Cooking," Michael Roberts

Ingredients

• 12 oz. apple smoked bacon, cut into 1/4 -inch strips
• 2 lbs boneless country-style spareribs
• 1 large white onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic,thinly sliced
• 6 cups sauerkraut, drained and rinsed
• 2 cups dry Riesling or other dry fruity wine
• 3 cups low sodium chicken broth
• 10 juniper berries
• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 lb. Toulouse or kielbasa sausage
• 1 lb. smoked ham
• kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F

2. In a large Le Creuset Dutch Oven, sauté the bacon until just starting to turn brown. Remove the bacon and set aside. You should have about 2-3 tablespoons of fat left in the pot, if not add some olive oil.

3. Salt and pepper the spareribs. Add them to the pot and brown on all sides. Scatter the onions and garlic and sauté (without browning) for a few minutes.

4. Add the sauerkraut, wine, chicken broth, bacon, juniper berries, caraway seeds, and bay leaves to the pot. Stir to mix. Cover the pot and bake in the oven for 2 hour. Stirring occasionally so the sauerkraut does not stick to the bottom of the pot.

5. Remove the pot and add the smoked ham. Cover and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and add the sausage or kielbasa. Add more broth or wine if the pot is too dry. Cook uncovered for another 45 minutes.

6. Remove the pot from the oven. (If the sauerkraut is very moist, remove the meat and place the pot on medium heat to boil off most of the liquid.)

7. To Serve: Pile the sauerkraut on a large platter surrounded and topped with the meat. Serve with Dijon mustards and small boiled potatoes.